Fashion designer Simon Porte Jacquemus is the man we fell in love with about ten years ago. Collection after collection, the powerhouse keeps surprising with his designs, balancing on the edge of being conceptual and commercial. Everything this man touches turns into gold. Find out more about Jacquemus’ early life, career, and endless creativity below. “My brand is a way of living; it’s personal. I want to share my universe with the world.” Cover photo: courtesy of Jacquemus, @jacquemus
Also, read: PIERRE HARDY, HERMÈS JEWELRY: “COLOR IS FUNDAMENTAL TO HERMÈS”
EARLY LIFE OF SIMON PORTE JACQUEMUS
Simon Porte Jacquemus (1990) was born and raised in a small town near Marseille. His parents were farmers, and he spent his entire youth at the farm, selling fruits and vegetables on the local market with his grandparents. At this marketplace, his obsession with Paris originated. He learned to recognize Parisian people by their license plates and became truly obsessed when someone told him, “If you make it in Paris, you can make it anywhere.” As soon as he finished school, the young Simon Porte Jacquemus moved to Paris to fulfill his dream and start a career in cinema. He had always been interested in telling stories, mainly about women. His most striking obsessions are a profound love for uniforms and women. Fun fact: Jacquemus wanted to become a priest at a younger age since he fell in love with the uniform—instead of a love for God.
THE START OF JACQUEMUS
He couldn’t find his way when going to fashion school in Paris. Other pupils missed his passion, and teachers told him not to be pretentious. After a few months, Jacquemus’ mother passed away in an accident. It made him realize that life could be over in a split second. His mom always told him to follow his heart, so he dropped out of school. The designer started his brand at nineteen, and it felt natural to name it after his mother’s maiden name, Jacquemus. The young designer worked at the Comme des Garçons boutique in Paris to fund his business. This was a great move without premeditation since Rei Kawakubo later became an influential supporter of his designs and brand. The house’s minimalistic look was born out of necessity because he initially didn’t have the means to make bold clothes. Through the years, his designs have developed into more outspoken creations.
EARLY COLLECTIONS
According to the designer, the first and second collections were substantial but not as strong as the third, all made from wool. Rei Kawakubo also thought so when she saw his collection in a showroom in Tokyo. Shortly after they met in Paris, Jacquemus started working at their store as their “Sales assistant with the highest motivation,” Kawakubo later explained. Previously, Kawakubo and her husband, Adrian Joffe, didn’t want to hire him because he was too talented. He insisted anyway and got the job. As soon as Joffe started buying Jacquemus’ collections and sold them in London, his big breakthrough was a fact. Jacquemus quickly gained attention in the fashion industry for his playful yet sophisticated designs, often blending bold proportions, asymmetry, and innovative materials. His big breakthrough moment came in 2015 when he was a finalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize. Since then, the brand has become synonymous with French chic.
SLOWING DOWN
In 2019, Jacquemus announced that he would slow down his cycles. “A year ago, we decided to slow down our cycle by showing womenswear and menswear together in January and June. This allows us to reduce the number of shows, mutualize fabrics for menswear and womenswear, and slow the pace for my team and partners.” Jacquemus was one of the first designers to make this bold decision. In 2020, though, other designer houses were forced to do so due to the pandemic. Among others, Gucci, Pyer Moss, Michael Kors, Armani, Dior, Marc Jacobs, and Saint Laurent also decided to skip the fast pace dictated by the fashion calendar. Soon after the world opened again, many (if not all) fashion houses rejoined the fashion calendar, except for Jacquemus. To this date, he shows twice a year in spectacular locations (mainly in France) outside Fashion Month.
STORYTELLING
Since a young age, Jacquemus hasn’t been afraid of the camera. He loves to capture his life and share it. When he was 13, he even had a blog on which he told stories about himself. And he still does; every collection tells a personal story or is inspired by his life.
For example, his “LA’MOUR” Spring/Summer 2021 collection was all about love and the absence of love during 2020’s lockdown. “As an idea for this collection, L’Amour began as something different. I imagined people gathered together to celebrate love. […] But what’s so beautiful about L’Amour is how it can endure—sometimes even grow stronger—without people being together. Not long after my team was separated from each other, we were all in our homes feeling the desire to work, and a new vision of the collection emerged.” Another striking collection was “LE PAPIER” for Spring/Summer 2022. Presented in the salt flats of the Camargue region in the south of France, this collection embraced the rawness of nature and minimalism. White tones and earthy hues dominated the runway, with billowing silhouettes and delicate textures. It celebrated the elements, drawing from nature’s imperfections, and echoed Jacquemus’ continual exploration of freedom and purity. “LE CHOUCHOU” (Fall/Winter 2023) might be the most timeless take on his designs so far. This collection, named after the French word for “favorite” or “darling,” paid homage to Parisian chic with a contemporary twist. It showcased a mix of romanticism and practicality, featuring exaggerated volumes, puffy coats, and sleek, fitted dresses. Jacquemus balanced whimsy with structure, keeping in line with his vision of celebrating simplicity and eccentricity. For his Spring 2024 collection, the designer realized his “biggest dream” so far, showing in Carpi on the roof of Casa Malaparte.
FAMOUS FRIENDS AND CLIENTELE
Simon Jacquemus is known for his close relationships with celebrities and influencers, who often appear at his shows or are spotted wearing his designs. His famous friends are model Gigi Hadid, pop star Dua Lipa, and actor Timothée Chalamet. His friendship with singer Rosalía has led to her becoming one of the most prominent faces of the Jacquemus brand, often wearing his designs in her music videos and public appearances. In addition to his celebrity connections, Jacquemus has collaborated with brands such as Nike and Swarovski, blending his signature style with sportswear and jewelry to create unique, unexpected collections. Overall, the celebration of love and appeal of Jacquemus’ designs seem universal. He’s reigned the fashion industry for over eleven years and created a new status quo.
