To show or not to show: the pivotal questions fashion designers had to answer the past months. As a result, a condensed version of New York Fashion Week took place from September 14 to 16. While many have been in doubt about the event’s future, luckily there has been a bunch of brands who saw it as their utmost importance to make this fashion week successful. Let’s take a look at the best of NYFW.
Cover photo: © Pexels
Best of New York Fashion Week
As many designers have resigned this edition of New York Fashion Week, the event condensed to three days. NYFW’s deflation isn’t entirely COVID’s fault; it has been a while since many designers decided to move overseas, looking for new opportunities. However, enough is said and done about its decline. It’s time to look at the bright side: let’s check out the best of New York Fashion Week.
Talk of town during New York Fashion Week? Definitely Ella Emhoff for Proenza Schouler. Kamala Harris’ stephdaughter was signed at IMG right after Biden’s and Harris’ inauguration, together with stunning Amanda Gorman.
Back to Proenza Schouler: since it isn’t a normal fashion season, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez recorded their Fall/Winter 2021 collection a couple of weeks ago in Water Mill. The designer duo developed a website especially for this occasion; it showed the collection video, followed by their look book with the possibility to pre-order. Quite a striking move, for a designer duo who created a hardbound book for their Spring/Summer 2021 collection. When explaining the collection during a Zoom call, McCollough and Hernandez talked about balance a lot. Their sense of balance resulted in a collection full of signature Proenza looks, but slightly more subtle. Midi-dresses, strong pants suits and earthy tones were dominating – all very flattering and easy to wear, and so, pandemic-proof.
Instead of her go-to era (a sexy spin on the nineties), Svetlana Bevza created a collection inspired by the groovy seventies. Fringes, flared jeans and headbands were the stars of the collection, with “a rebel spirit” according to Bevza herself.
Due to the pandemic, Bevza wanted to go back to her Ukrainian heritage. Her main source of inspiration was Olga of Kyiv – a women living in the 10th century, revenging those who murdered her husband. And just like the last season, the designer incorporated the image of spikelet as well – depicting a good harvest and great year. She processed it in boots, cape dresses and knits, resulting in a honorable connection to her heritage collection like no other.
“You have to be aspirational, you have to design for your dream woman,” said Sandy Liang about her Fall/Winter 2021 collection, part of New York Fashion Week. While it might feel inappropriate in times like these, nothing feels more refreshing. “I think that was the right thing to do when I was younger, but now it’s really important to be optimistic and to design things that don’t make sense for right now,” she added. Right or not, her collection brings about an uplifting feeling. And what’s ever better: Liang kept the pandemic in mind while developing the collection; almost every item contains a sense of practicality. Hence, each piece is suitable at a party as well as while going for a – very fashionably – walk.
Haoran Li and Siying Qu created a genderless collection consisting of earhty tones and surprising, pink hats. The duo drew inspiration from the 19th-century gold rush, partnering with the Museum of Chinese in America. They honored the workers who participated in creating the transcontinental railroad. They dived into their garments and discovered a mix of Americana and traditional Chinese designs, including many quilted details. Despite all these influences have become part of the current collection, it still is 21st century proof. Or – as they call it – “Eastern kids from the Wild Wild West.” Simply brilliant.