By the time the model stepped onto the runway wearing a sculptural black bustier and a collar of gold vertebrae crowned with a beating heart. And so, the tone of the Schiaparelli haute couture Fall 2025 show was crystal clear: visceral, eerie, and alive. It throbbed completely in sync with the room’s collective gasp. A moment made for that rare couture electricity: art, craftsmanship, and storytelling molded into a surreal statement. Cover image: courtesy of Schiaparelli
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SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2025-2026
Daniel Roseberry, the Texan at the helm of this storied French maison, has habitually turned couture into conversation. And not the fleeting TikTok kind, though he’s mastered viral fashion moments, too (see: Kylie Jenner and the now-infamous lion head). No, Roseberry taps into something more profound. Each collection is less about trend and more about temperature. He captures the zeitgeist not with slogans, but with symbols. Remember his cyberbaby a few seasons back? A nod to tech anxiety in an era of AI overload. In stark black and white this season, he proposes a counter-world: no screens, filters, or algorithms.
Inspired by the twilight days of 1940s Paris, when Elsa Schiaparelli left the city amid war and chaos, Roseberry conjures a collection between nostalgia and apocalypse. “A post-future old world,” he calls it. It could sound pretentious, but it isn’t because the clothes deliver.
Gone are the house’s traditional corseted silhouettes. Instead, we get razor-sharp jackets with exaggerated shoulders, trompe l’oeil tailoring that reveals anatomical details hidden in seams, and sinuous bias-cut gowns that float like ghosts of couture past. The legendary “Apollo” cape is reborn in constellations of jet-black diamanté. A matador jacket glistens with black pearls and metallic leopard spots: classic Schiaparelli codes made futuristic through sheer scale and intention.
Despite the high concept, Roseberry doesn’t stand for fashion lost in theory; he knows how to balance his references. Each look feels grounded—even wearable—because of how he edits (and perhaps a good stylist helps). There’s elegance, but also tension—beauty, with a sharp edge. Even the most fantastical dresses, like the white silk organdie cloud adorned with shell-like 3D embroidery, carry a kind of restraint. Roseberry’s respect for the brand’s DNA is key. Where Chanel was utility, Elsa Schiaparelli was all about provocation. She wondered if fashion could be art, and Roseberry expands it with work that doesn’t mimic Schiaparelli’s directly, but revives her spirit through modern visual language.
SCHIAPARELLI = COUTURE
And let’s be honest: Schiaparelli is haute couture at its core. It lives in the realm of imagination, where garments express ideologies. That’s where Roseberry outperforms others on the schedule, shaping what the moment could be instead of solely designing for it. And so, instead of a gimmick, Roseberry’s beating necklace is a metaphor for fashion that feels and for history that lives. And so, he proves himself once again to be the master of couture.
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