A compelling case against the rise of ai models

THE RISE OF AI MODELS

It was only a matter of time before fashion, a business that thrives on visuals and innovation, embraced AI models. The appeal is obvious: they don’t need breaks, don’t age, and can be programmed to represent any look, identity, or aesthetic. But as the technology rapidly evolves, so does the unease. Because while these digital creations may be mesmerizing, they’re also ushering in a new era of unattainable beauty standards. One of the most talked-about recent examples? H&M’s campaign starring “digital twins”—AI-generated versions of human models, designed with near-perfect symmetry, dewy skin, and zero imperfections. The images are sleek, futuristic, and eerily beautiful. But they’re also not real. And that’s precisely the problem.

Courtesy of H&M

A RETURN TO THE UNATTAINABLE?

In the ‘90s, it was heroin chic: skeletal bodies, hollowed-out cheeks, and an aesthetic that glamorized fragility. In the 2010s, the pendulum swung to the surgically sculpted silhouettes of the Kardashian era—snatched waists, exaggerated curves, and high-gloss looks. Both were manufactured ideals. Both left real women struggling to keep up. Now, with the rise of AI models, we’re once again teetering on dangerous ground. Because how do you compete with someone who doesn’t exist? Fashion has always flirted with fantasy—it’s part of the magic. But when fantasy completely replaces reality, we risk losing the raw, imperfect, deeply human stories that make fashion matter. The scars, freckles, stretch marks, and lived-in expressions are not bugs in the system; they’re features. They remind us that clothing is meant for people.

Then, there’s also a broader issue of representation. While some brands claim that AI models can promote diversity—because you can “generate” any skin tone, body type, or cultural identity—the truth is that the biases of their creators still shape these avatars. Without careful oversight, the same Eurocentric, sizeist beauty standards can easily be baked into the algorithm.

TOPMODEL SASKIA DE BRAUW SPEAKS UP

“Modeling is a human endeavor; it requires skill, practice, collaboration, and emotion to exist truly and should never be replaced by machines. When money or cost efficiency is the sole motivation, nothing good can come from it,” top model Saskia de Brauw shares on Instagram. In a Reel, she looks back at her decade-spanning career in fashion. “I made a late start in modeling as a career. I was 28, had graduated from Art school, and worked small jobs to get by. When I entered the fashion industry, I was the same age as models who already had an established and long career.” Her critique on AI models struck a chord—especially with those who remember the impact of earlier beauty ideals.

“We all knew it was coming,” she continues, “but it still hit me like lightning when I read that some of my colleagues were giving away their appearance to AI. In my view, their decision completely disrespects the collaborative work that is so important for our careers. It also shows a lack of respect for all fellow models by taking away work their digital twins can now perform instead of many of us. Ultimately, fashion exists because there is a longing for beauty and freedom.”

For now, transparency is key, but it is lacking in most cases (here, you can credit H&M for their openness). De Brauw wants businesses to stop replacing models with AI alternatives: “My voice is small, but I want to plead with all my colleagues not to give in to the monster AI creates for us. THANK YOU.”