Some things live on your mind rent-free for years… In ON OUR MINDS, we discuss topics we can’t wrap our heads around or those that need to shed light on. Today: THE EVERLASTING APPEAL OF DIAMONDS and an explanation of the LAB-GROWN DIAMOND-CRAZE in general, explained by JEWELRY EXPERT and RÊVER’s CO FOUNDER and MARKETING MANAGER MARTA PEÑALVER TORRES. Cover image: courtesy of RÊVER JEWELRY
THE EVERLASTING APPEAL OF THE HERMÈS BIRKIN BAG, EXPLAINED BY ALEXANDRA STUECK
IN CONVERSATION WITH MARTA PEÑALVER, CO-FOUNDER OF RÊVER JEWELRY
Accomplishing a significant goal in her childhood is one of Marta Penalver’s most lively memories. “I recall the countless hours and effort I poured into pursuing this objective. Despite facing numerous challenges and obstacles along the journey, I discovered my inner strength to overcome them with sheer determination and resilience.” It wasn’t just about external validation but a deep-rooted recognition of her abilities and potential. The achievement underscored the value of perseverance and effort and ignited a fire within her to continually seek new goals and challenges, constantly pushing her beyond her limits. It has undoubtedly, she underscores, changed her outlook on life. It’s safe to say it influenced what she does today, including the start of RÊVER JEWELRY.
Launching a sustainable jewelry brand wasn’t the first thing she did when entering the workforce. The first years of her career involved working for multiple corporate organizations. She recalls that transitioning from the corporate world to establishing her venture in the fine jewelry industry has been a thrilling and transformative odyssey. “My tenure in corporate settings gave me a solid grasp of the industry, honed my leadership and managerial skills, and fostered invaluable partnerships.” Yet, deep down, Pañlver harbored a burning passion and a vision to craft something unique and intimate. The opportune moment arrived when a compelling concept resonated with her interest. Then, she seized the opportunity to start her entrepreneurial journey. Co-founding RÊVER with a partner marked an exhilarating and daunting leap. “This expedition has enabled me to unleash my creativity, pursue my entrepreneurial dreams, and deliver ethically conscious products and bespoke experiences in fine jewelry. While laden with challenges, this journey has been immensely fulfilling, and I eagerly anticipate further growth and evolution along this path.”
Looking back at her corporate work life, she’s learned a lot. “A fundamental lesson I’ve gleaned is the significance of surrounding myself with talented individuals and nurturing those relationships. I advocate for the potency of teamwork and how collective effort can exponentially enhance the outcomes of any endeavor. Drawing from personal experience, I attest that collaboration and mutual support are indispensable for realizing ambitious aspirations.”
Why did you start RÊVER JEWELRY?
“The beginning of RÊVER occurred during the pandemic. My business partner and I were immersed in the retail sector then. We noticed a burgeoning trend toward sustainability in the textile industry, yet we observed a notable gap in the jewelry sector. Coincidentally, a close relative of my partner became engaged with a ring fashioned from lab-grown diamonds—an idea that deeply intrigued us, given our backgrounds in the jewelry field. This sparked our curiosity and prompted us to explore this innovative avenue. After extensive market research and deliberation, we boldly decided to forge ahead. We were enthralled by the prospect of crafting pieces from responsibly sourced materials and effecting meaningful change in the jewelry industry.”
“AFTER EXTENSIVE MARKET RESEARCH AND DELIBERATION, WE BOLDLY DECIDED TO FORGE AHEAD.”
Marta Peñalver Torres
How would you describe RÊVER’s aesthetic?
“Inspired by the French word “rêver,” which translates to “dream,” RÊVER embodies our jewelry vision stemming from a profound passion for art, fashion, and design. We curate a diverse collection of jewelry that seamlessly blends reinvented classics with distinctive designs, catering to the multifaceted occasions encountered by the modern woman. Whether it’s an intimate dinner with friends, a glamorous event, or a professional meeting, our jewelry is meticulously crafted to complement and elevate any ensemble. At the heart of our philosophy lies the commitment to crafting jewelry that transcends transient trends and endures the test of time, with the aspiration that they become cherished heirlooms passed down through generations. For us, this would represent the ultimate legacy.”
Where do you wish to be with RÊVER in five years?
“We are dedicated to fostering the growth of RÊVER in the years ahead, aspiring for it to emerge as a global benchmark. We want current and prospective customers to regard RÊVER as synonymous with high-quality, design-driven, and sustainable products ideal for everyday elegance.”
THE CASE OF LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS
Then, what are lab-grown diamonds? Could you elaborate on the process of creating lab-grown diamonds, including the techniques and any technological advancements that have enhanced their quality?
“Our diamonds are crafted in a laboratory, where we replicate the natural forces deep within the Earth’s crust. This is achieved through the High Pressure-High Temperature (HPHT) method. Diamond formation begins with carbon material within controlled environments that mimic the conditions in the natural diamond-forming process beneath the Earth’s surface. This involves subjecting the carbon to a unique combination of extreme pressure (up to 60,000 ATM) and high temperature (up to 2,500º C), akin to conditions 140km to 190km below the Earth’s surface. The outcome is an authentic rough diamond possessing identical properties to mined diamonds. Creating such diamonds typically ranges from 6 to 8 weeks, depending on factors such as color and size.”
“Initially, lab-grown diamonds were primarily utilized for industrial purposes due to their lower quality. However, advancements in technology and manufacturing processes have led to a significant improvement in their quality. Scientists and engineers have developed more sophisticated techniques, including the HPHT and chemical vapor deposition (CVD) processes, enabling the production of diamonds with properties and characteristics comparable to natural diamonds. As a result, lab-grown diamonds have gained increasing acceptance in high-end jewelry, owing to their consistent quality, traceability, and ethical sourcing.”
“LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS HAVE GAINED INCREASING ACCEPTANCE IN HIGH-END JEWELRY, OWING TO THEIR CONSISTENT QUALITY, TRACEABILITY, AND ETHICAL SOURCING.”
Marta Peñalver Torres
Regarding environmental and ethical considerations, how do lab-grown diamonds compare to traditional mined diamonds?
“Every day, we strive to transform the jewelry industry into a more conscious, clean, circular sector. By incorporating lab-grown diamonds into our designs, we aim to address two crucial concerns. Firstly, lab-grown diamonds offer a responsible alternative, free from the ethical dilemmas associated with traditional diamond mining practices. Secondly, these diamonds are produced with minimal environmental impact, avoiding pollution of water bodies and soil displacement typically associated with mining operations.”
As lab-grown diamonds become more mainstream, how do you envision their impact on the jewelry industry in terms of market trends, consumer preferences, and the overall perception of diamond authenticity and value?
Laboratory-grown diamonds are poised to become a more prominent choice in the jewelry industry, driven by increasing consumer demand for sustainable products at fair prices without compromising quality. This trend is gaining momentum and is expected to have a significant positive impact on our sector. Moreover, education plays a pivotal role in this process. Lab-grown diamonds are relatively new in our region, unlike in the United States or Northern Europe, where they are already familiar to consumers. Therefore, information about these gems is essential to help consumers understand and consider their purchasing options. Consumers must grasp that lab-grown diamonds are physically, chemically, and optically identical to their mined counterparts, with the only difference being their origin.”
“It’s crucial to note that while demand for diamonds is increasing, traditional mining extraction is declining. In contrast, the production capacity of lab-grown diamonds continues to expand, making them an increasingly significant player in the market.”