Fashion Month is in full force and the most head-turning looks have made their entrance on both the catwalk and streets of Milan. From punk to deconstruction and ultra-short hemlines: these are the biggest Milan Fashion Week trends for spring/summer 2022.
Cover photo: courtesy of MAXMARA
Milan Fashion Week trends
Whether you love the street style or let fashion moguls dictate what to wear, a combination of both often predicts the up-and-coming trends best. Let’s dig into the biggest trends of Milan Fashion Week.
1. Sculptural heels
Prada and Fendi are among the most influential brands to dictate future it-bags and shoes. Sculptural heels were dominant at both fashion houses, varying from logo heels to architectural masterpieces.
2. Clashing materials
Craftsmanship is one of the central themes of all collections – from embroideries to the tiniest handmade details. The most striking part of these crafts was the contrast between materials. At Tod’s, wool and canvas were combined with gold-colored brooches and at Sportmax, corsets were juxtaposed with orange, athleisure-inspired laces.
Deconstruction was one of the central themes at Copenhagen Fashion Week, mainly due to its sustainable origin. Upcycling may be more than a trend, and so are deconstructed clothes. At Prada, the creative directors used haute couture as their main influence, in a deconstructed way. The lining of gowns and jackets were predominantly used as clothing items on their own. And why not? It gives a sexy spin to a classic wardrobe.
4. Sex without the male gaze
The male gaze is very nineties if we must believe Milan’s fashion brands. At Prada, models wore corsets in a slouchy way – very sexy, without selling sex. The same holds for Sportmax, where transparent corsets were definitely seductive in their own way.
5. Transparency for the win
To stick to the absence of the formerly predominant male gaze, N21 showed see-through tops preferably to wear without anything underneath. Bella Hadid is a big fan, but it’s questionable if and how to overcome eyes staring at your chest. Luckily, corsets and bralettes dominate the latest looks as well, leading to a sexy but casual ensemble.
6. Short hemlines
The shorter, the better, must have been the thought of Donatella Versace when she made up Versace’s hemlines. Inspired by Twiggy and Mary Quant, skirts are getting shorter than ever. At Prada, shorts accompanied the deconstructed skirts (or should we say belts?) to prevent embarrassing moments.
7. Pointy toes
Square toes are here to stay, but the pointy ones only get pointier. Many designers showed ultra-sexy pumps, often with kitten heels. Raf Simons’ debut at Prada has inspired many.
Vivienne Westwood reigns fashion without being present. Her punk influences were clearly visible at MM6 Maison Margiela, among others. Being a little stubborn and sturdy after several lockdowns is an entirely natural reflex, making it a logical trend to embrace.
9. Firemen red
At Prada, most bags (and partly the shoes as well) were firemen red. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons drew their inspiration from haute couture, deconstructing classic pieces and blending them into ready-to-wear pieces. The bright-colored, red bags were true showstoppers.