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Marre Muijs, founder of ESSEN shakes up the fashion industry: “I was taught to have a long-term relationship with clothes”

marre muijs essen the label

“I founded ESSEN in 2016 as a response to a fashion cycle that overproduces more than it carefully crafts, chases trends more than it determines classics, and wastes more than it sustains. ESSEN encourages people to buy less, choose better and wear longer. I aspire to simplify women’s wardrobes, by helping them consider what they really need and edit out excess. That’s where the name comes from – essentials,” explains Marre Muijs, founder and creative director of ESSEN.
Cover photo: © ESSEN

Marre Muijs

“I’m originally from The Netherlands, but whilst I was studying I did an exchange program in Melbourne and even though I didn’t know anyone and had never visited Australia before, I immediately felt at home,” tells Marre Muijs at the start of the interview. The young designer feels Australian in heart and soul now. “I moved back as soon as I graduated from university, and it’s the best decision I’ve ever made. When I look back, there are so many incredible people that I’ve met and memories made,” she adds.

After graduation, Marre didn’t exactly know what to do. She had several jobs in the fashion industry, but none of them felt like the right fit. “It took me quite a bit of time to find my footing if I’m honest. We now live in a world that encourages us to be the multifaceted humans that we are, but at the time it made me feel a little lost. The more I worked in the industry, the more I understood how it was missing the mark and needed to redirect itself to be more responsible and considered, more inclusive, and less compromising in its products and processes. I now understand that my early experiences have prepared me to run my own business, think outside the box and forge my own path, which is something I’m very grateful for.”

“I now understand that my early experiences have prepared me to run my own business”

Marre Muijs

Love for sustainability

Just like the idea behind ESSEN, her love for sustainable fashion grew over time: “It’s something that has evolved gradually. My parents raised my siblings and me with a mindful approach and to be conscious of our footprint. Growing up, we would spend a lot of time outdoors and they were resolute in cycling everywhere. I remember having a car as a family but we barely used it. My mum is very creative and we didn’t have much money, so she would often make our clothes or spend time repairing and caring for our wardrobes. It taught me to have a long-term relationship with my clothes and treat them with love so they would last longer.”

This approach led to a long-term-oriented mindset towards fashion, which is at the core of ESSEN. “Over time, I’ve built a wardrobe of core items, instead of buying fast fashion. Some of the pieces in my wardrobe I’ve had for over fifteen years and I still get so much joy out of wearing them. This is what I want people to feel when they wear my shoes. Sustainability is a mindset, once you’ve started questioning things and opened your eyes, it will naturally infiltrate into everything you do. Just ask yourself, do you need it? What do you need it for? How often will you use it? Only buy it if you really love it and will have it for years to come.”

“I do believe fashion can be a force for good; a vehicle for change”

Marre Muijs

“Even though sustainability informs everything I do and every decision I make, ESSEN doesn’t identify as a sustainable brand. I’m very conscious of the contradiction between the current fashion industry, producing for consumption, and the concept of sustainability. But I do believe that fashion can also be a force for good, and a vehicle for change. Shoes are an everyday necessity and good design improves our day-to-day lives. We can still indulge in those things that make us feel good whilst putting people and the planet first.  So I’m committed to making better choices every day across every part of the business to minimize our social and environmental impact and be the most responsible version we can be.”

ESSEN

ESSEN is all about timelessness and sophistication. Being accessible for all, Marre Muijs brings sustainable footwear to a higher, yet more approachable level for everyone. The designs are both classic and contemporary, to meet various needs. The label grew from her increasing frustration with the relentless cycles and seasons and endless pursuit of newness. “I craved a slower pace and a more conscious process. Despite working in the footwear industry, I could not find good quality, timeless shoes that were comfortable, ethically made, and affordable. The industry was oversaturated with disposable and poorly constructed products and I needed to rethink how I was going to contribute to something that I loved, but in a way that aligned with my personal values.”

She continues: “After having this conversation with friends one too many times, I decided I was going to try and create the perfect collection of quality wardrobe essentials myself. So I launched ESSEN, which has enabled me to forge my own path.”

Ever since ESSEN has become all about wardrobe essentials – the brand’s name even stems from it. “Essentials need to be exactly what you need – nothing more, nothing less. I aspire to simplify women’s wardrobes, by helping them consider what they really need.” And that’s not all: “A great capsule wardrobe has a strong foundation of those wardrobe essentials – timeless pieces that will carry over from season to season and lay the foundation for most of your outfits. These wardrobe staples help you to get dressed easily, make your closet versatile, and can easily be mixed-and-matched and worn from day to night.”

On-demand production

When starting the label, on-demand production in small batches was an absolute must. Muijs: “Overproduction in fashion is one of the biggest environmental threats. I believe in doing more with less and owning fewer, better things – pieces you love and will wear all the time. So with ESSEN, I encourage people to buy less, choose better and wear longer. The range is a permanent collection of no-compromise essentials – timeless classics that are reimagined in new ways and made to last. With a permanent collection and moving away from traditional seasons and not being focused on the fashion calendar, I can take all the time I need and there’s no limit to the resources I can invest in my designs. So I take it slow, developing, testing, and then releasing one key staple at a time. My intention is for my shoes to retain their value and for customers to have a long-term relationship with them.”

“I believe in doing more with less and owning fewer, better things”

Marre Muijs

“Another thing that makes ESSEN different from other footwear brands, is that we produce in very small batches, or entirely on-demand. I only work with high-quality materials from low-minimum suppliers. All styles are handmade in Italy, Portugal, and Spain in solar-powered factories by expert artisans who have been making shoes for generations.” On-demand production helps as well: “Producing on-demand enables me to accurately calculate the demand as we only produce what we’ve already sold. This way we can make smarter use of resources, minimize up to 90% of waste associated with traditional manufacturing processes and eliminate overproduction.”

Making a change

While Muijs is creating a shift in the fashion industry, there’s work to do on the consumer side as well. “If consumers start asking more questions and demand more rigorous standards, it will send a strong message down the supply chain. There is so much power in our purchasing decisions and every action matters. Increasingly consumers are shopping based on their values and as a brand, I think it’s important to not just make one-off donations but to build long-term behavior that supports giving back and creates meaningful change.”

“At home, I’m always experimenting with new ways to live more sustainably; searching for what’s simple and accessible but that will make an impact, and then make an everyday thing of it. It can be as simple as using reusable water bottles and coffee cups and carrying a foldable tote bag with you. Walk or ride your bicycle instead of jumping in the car for short trips and growing your own herbs is also an enjoyable way to minimize packaging waste.”

At last, the pandemic has helped as well. “The pandemic has really highlighted how much waste traditional fashion manufacturing generates. Since working from home has become the norm, consumers are a lot more conscious about what brings them joy and what they want to reintroduce in their lives. Today’s customer is smarter and more informed than ever, so hopefully, this will encourage more brands and businesses to respond to a shift in consumer demand to be more sustainable and transparent and to think about their environmental and social impacts.” A positive nod to a hopeful future.

Also read: The Garment fall/winter 2022: a breath-taking collection dedicated to Danish heritage

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