Some designers create clothes, and some visionaries craft stories through fabric, color, and design. Sabato de Sarno has firmly established himself as the latter with his Gucci Ancora debut collection. In a breathtaking fusion of artistry and emotion, de Sarno’s inaugural offering takes us on a journey through the vitality of life itself.
Cover image: courtesy of Gucci
Gucci Ancora
De Sarno, an unexpected choice for the role, stepped into the spotlight after being named Gucci’s creative head in January. He was tasked with “reinforcing the house’s fashion authority while capitalizing on its rich heritage,” according to the press release about his recent appointment. His predecessor had exited the scene in November after an impactful seven-year reign that had reshaped the Italian heritage label.
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Hailing from Valentino’s design studio, De Sarno had spent 14 years (!) rising from knitwear designer to become Pierpaolo Piccioli’s closest collaborator. Piccioli was in attendance at the debut, a testament to the respect De Sarno commands within the industry; notably absent was Jared Leto.
Lack of eccentricity
What was immediately evident in De Sarno’s debut was the absence of the eccentricity that had defined Gucci’s former era. De Sarno’s Gucci Ancora collection isn’t just about the clothes; it’s a narrative spun from the threads of joy, passion, and the richness of existence. Each piece in this debut weaves a tale of humanity, inviting us to embrace the complexities of real life. In its place, the designer sought to establish his essentials, emphasizing cut and proportion and employing repeated shapes for power.
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“I felt the urgency to assemble the pieces that I like and don’t find,” De Sarno explained in an earlier interview. The Gucci Ancora color palette is as diverse as the emotions it encapsulates. While red signifies desire and lust, blue and green represent our lives’ tranquil and lively aspects. De Sarno has ingeniously harnessed these colors to evoke a sense of spontaneity and light. It’s as if you’ve stumbled upon a party at the first light of day; the world is your dance floor.
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Also, read: GCDS Spring/Summer 2024: a playful homecoming with Giuliano Calza
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Expression of freedom
One of the most striking aspects of Sabato de Sarno’s debut is its bold embrace of freedom. It’s a manifesto of self-expression that refuses to bow to taboos or conventions. It proudly stands as a manifestation of unbridled euphoria. This collection is an open invitation for everyone to revel in its glory. It reflects the diversity of our world, captured in a series of garments that celebrate all ages, backgrounds, and experiences.
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Overall, Sabato De Sarno has made his statement with the Gucci Ancora show: a fashion house reborn, with the promise of a new chapter that merges heritage and innovation in an alluring embrace of sensuality.
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