Whereas designers liked to play it safe at other fashion weeks, the ones showing at CPHFW weren’t afraid to create sustainable and statement-setting collections. Discover the most significant trends of Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Biggest trends Copenhagen Fashion Week fall/winter 2024
Despite the global events, designers dared to design with boldness, vibrancy, and excessiveness in mind. Shoulders were big and powerful at Gestuz, for example, as well as the ubiquitousness of leather. Remain’s new creative director took a spin on the brand’s heritage and opted for a more grown-up look. It tapped into one of the issues of the 2020s – how to address the new way of working? Going back to the office full-time may belong to the past for many. But on the days you go, you will want to swap your joggers for Remain’s new collection, that is for sure. Classic with a modern edge, mainly suited for the office, effortlessly blending into looks that suit a wedding or an after-party. It slightly reminded of the aesthetics The Row and Jil Sander became famous for – minimalism at its finest. The same was true for Mark Kenly Domino Tan, who showed a collection with a new take on Scandinavian minimalism. The label’s tailoring is beyond anything, translated into high-quality materials with surprising elements. Models walked the runway wearing umbrellas, putting the collection in a real-life context.
Fashion week schedule 2024: the ultimate guide to the runway
Furthermore, since fashion is all about juxtapositions, there were look-at-me dresses, dramatic coats, overdone sleeves, beads, and glitters. The sense of undoneness at Gestuz was striking. Models walked the runway in clothes ideally suited for a party, but they looked like the party was already over. “I like to embrace the messiness,” creative director Sanne Sehested explained post-show. “The glamor amazes me, but it gets interesting when the looks aren’t polished.” One of her primary sources of inspiration was Kate Moss. During her heydays of modeling, she usually dressed in jeans and slouchy T-shirts and dressed up when going clubbing.
Copenhagen Fashion Week closed with a club night, traditionally. Remain’s afterparty was as legendary as expected, with its show teasing what was about to come. As always, Remain embraces the mob wife aesthetic with dramatic coats, daring dresses, and an energetic and excited crowd, applauding every model that enters the stage. Sleeves played a starring role, as well as short hemlines and thigh-high boots. Nothing is too much, and even Scandi-girls like to play a little occasionally. Eye-candy looks were among the favorites but don’t represent the dominant aesthetic at CPHFW. Discover the most significant trends from Copenhagen Fashion Week below.
Gestuz declared the big shoulder with chunky leather jackets, bold (cropped!) blazers, and shoulder pads as part of its new aesthetic. Creative director and founder Sanne Sehested reached for a sense of “undoneness, the aesthetic when one leaves a night club instead of entering it.” No polished looks, so to speak, but with a dose of glamor added to it.
Sheer materials were introduced at Prada, and it does make sense that the rest of the fashion industry would soon adopt the trend. And so it happened: sheer skirts, trousers, and tops dominated at Baum und Pferdgarten, Forza Collective, The Garment, and many others.
Undoubtedly, red is the number one trend color of the season. The Copenhagen Fashion Week’s in-crowd tapped into the trend like never before, and the color took center stage in the collections of Forza Collective, Gestuz, The Garment, and J. Lindeberg.
Opposites attract – proven by Remain, Aeron, and many others. Leather, fine knitwear, and shimmering materials combined with heavy cotton dominated the runways.
Despite hints of color, monochrome tailoring was widely represented. Herskind, The Garment, Aeron, Mark Kenly Domino Tan, Remain, and Lovechild1979 set the example.