Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2020 is still going strong. We are delighted to keep you posted on the best shows, promising designers and emerging trends. This update: Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens and Off-White.
Cover photo: Unsplash
Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week is full of great designers and shows. Since its hard to stay up-to-date with its great amount of shows, we’re delighted to keep you posted. Check out the schedule of all fashion weeks here and the complete Paris Fashion Week schedule here.
Sébastien Meunier designed a slick, sleek and gritty collection for Ann Demeulemeester. Latex materials, glossy looks and a grungy vibe formed an unexpected take on Demeulemeester’s signature looks, which are often drenched in romance.
Meunier went back to the ’90s, when we worked at both Jean Colonna and Maison Martin Margiela. The Spring/Summer 2020 collection made clear references to his time spent at these two renowned fashion houses, but Meunier used these forms of inspiration solely as muses, while keeping the collection very Demeulemeester.
The ultimate highlights of the collection were the bird claw boots, with heels of 10 centimeters – made possible by techniques borrow from the car industry. Overall we can conclude that Meunier is capable of transforming a brand while keeping an eye on its signature looks. He translates the brand’s handwriting to a more modern version, while adding some of his own. The result? A fashion forward collection that’s quirky, breath taking and relatable at the same time.
Rick Owens must have thought it’d be fun to present a freak show instead of a fashion show. Despite its aesthetic and carefully crafted pieces, the collection was far from ready to wear.
Owens made references to his heritage. As his mother is a Mexican immigrant and Owens was raised in the United States, he emphasized that it all wouldn’t have worked with borders – clearly referencing to the big wall that is being built between Mexico and The States. Where some of Owens’ shows used to be very aggressive in the past, this show wasn’t in any sense.
Owens created a silent protest against Trump, with weird-looking models, referring to Trump calling Mexicans “animals” and “criminals”. This silent protest was very stylish, by the way. Models were covered in layered dresses combined with futuristic details and hats. Owens added volumes at the right places and some cultural patterns and clashing colors where needed.
All together, the silent protest felt very strong. We truly hope the message may be clear and the clothes will be worn. Luckily there’re very loud, clear and magnificent.
Virgil Abloh’s Off-White show at Paris Fashion Week was as calm as Abloh should be at this very moment – he’s to rest up on doctor’s advise. After uncountable successes and hysteric collections, this one felt very refreshing and mature. It’s like Abloh knew he had to calm down before his GP told him to do so.
The show’s concept was called Meteor Shower, like the phenomenon itself on the one hand, while on the other hand referencing to the reciprocal strength of women. In line with this, the show kick-off with a spoken (recorded) word of Dr. Mae C. Jemison – the first black woman to travel in space. Jemison spoke about the importance of creativity in science.
Creativity was indeed displayed in Abloh’s show for Off-White Spring/Summer 2020. He managed to create garments consisting of references to space (craters), together with an adult and fresh appearance. We saw many whites, a few signature logos and overall very enviable looks. We’re ready for this space ship to Spring to take off.
Can’t get enough of Paris Fashion Week? Then you’ll like this as well:
Paris Fashion Week update #2 – Mugler, Maison Margiela, Dries van Noten and Rochas