2015—the year that Loewe’s status in the fashion industry would change for good. When Jonathan Anderson joined Loewe as creative director in 2013, the Spanish heritage house was better known for its craftsmanship than cult-status designs. But that changed in the blink of an eye with the launch of the Loewe Puzzle Bag—an origami-like carryall that would soon become the ultimate quiet flex. Cover image: courtesy of Loewe
2015: THE LAUNCH OF THE LOEWE PUZZLE BAG
Architectural yet effortless, the Loewe Puzzle Bag marked Jonathan Anderson’s first breakout hit at the Spanish house. Made from precise, almost laser-cut-like geometric leather panels, it challenged the idea of what a luxury bag could look and feel like. Soft yet structured, versatile yet design-forward, it could be worn five ways—crossbody, on the shoulder, clutch-style, top-handle, or even folded flat.
In the decade since its debut, the Loewe Puzzle Bag has become a defining piece of Anderson’s tenure at Loewe. It helped reposition the label from a quiet luxury leather house to one of the most fashion-forward brands in the LVMH portfolio. The Loewe Puzzle Bag became a commercial and creative anchor alongside buzzy ready-to-wear collections and cerebral runway presentations. It was the kind of item that could sit in the front row and sell in stores. Its popularity was mainly fueled by word-of-mouth love from editors and high-profile appearances in the arms of stars like Beyoncé, Sienna Miller, and Chloë Sevigny. But it wasn’t just the A-listers who fell under its spell. Minimalists love its clean lines, while maximalists adore its ever-changing colorways and slightly bolder seasonal iterations, with raffia as one of its latest additions.
LOEWE’S NEXT IT BAG?
The fashion industry was stunned by the news that Anderson would be stepping down from Loewe. Even though the rumors existed for months, seeing him leave the house is sad. But after over a decade at the helm, he leaves behind a more relevant brand than ever—and a bag that helped define a new era. So, what’s next for Loewe? Enter Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the New York-based duo behind Proenza Schouler. The designers know something about creating an it-bag: their PS1 shopper, first launched in 2008, was one of the earliest “anti-It-bags”—soft, slouchy, and low-key luxurious. Beloved by cool girls everywhere, the PS1 became an early 2010s icon, offering a downtown alternative to the logo-heavy bags of the time.
It’s fitting that McCollough and Hernandez would take the reins at Loewe. Like Anderson, they understand the power of a bright, design-driven bag to shape a brand’s identity and resonate with a new generation of consumers. Their appointment suggests Loewe is doubling on innovation and quiet cool rather than chasing trends or celebrity gimmicks.
Of course, the Loewe Puzzle Bag’s legacy isn’t going anywhere. It remains in production, now in multiple sizes and finishes—from the compact Puzzle Edge to seasonal collector’s editions. And while trends may come and go, the Puzzle’s appeal lies in its subtle subversion. Now, let’s see what Hernandez and McCollough have in store for it.
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