Playing with blur to stress that fashion, rather than being about the moment, is about the later, and putting into focus what may seem unclear right now. Impressions that fade, the pixels of the previous season are now blurred. Dresses, trench coats, and faux fur coats become an impression: a ghost, a memory that fades or returns and sticks. As always, it was a feast for the eye, and Jonathan Anderson again succeeded in reinventing Loewe’s signature, reaching new levels for the Spanish fashion house.
Cover photo: courtesy of Loewe
Loewe fall/winter 2023
Optical illusions and trompe l’oeil are just two of Jonathan Anderson’s many specialties. Where minimalism dominates the runways, Anderson’s collection was more extravagant but felt somehow minimal. White satin dresses were decorated with old photographs of the 1940s and 1950s, creating the optical illusions Anderson is known for. Photoshopped or not, Anderson is one of the most relevant designers of our time. His ability to claim the moment, to create collections that reflect the zeitgeist and make people think are central to his work.
The Loewe fall/winter 2023 collection consists of extraordinary creations that stretch the boundaries of fashion. A cardigan that’s actually a sticker? Big yes. A dress that looks flat on screen but is high in volume IRL? Yes, please. Pre-show Emily Ratajkowski explained her love for Loewe, explaining that Anderson creates clothes you want to wear. Despite the fact that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, the attractiveness of Anderson’s creations seems universal. This collection’s molded jackets were made from leather (perhaps inspired by Matthew Williams’ new take on Bottega Veneta?), and even a new bag got introduced: Loewe’s Squeeze bag, which will be in high demand soon, without any doubt. His latest collection, unlike its predecessors, has many references to Loewe’s signature styles, incorporating super-fine leather in many looks and returning to wearable yet artistic clothes.
After ten years at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson continued to reinvent the house. The big question remains: what will be next? Will Anderson’s Loewe be the first fashion house that will show digital-only fashion, perhaps shown on real models, without the audience even noticing? After all, at Loewe, nothing is what it seems.