You know when fashion history quietly loops back on itself — not with a bang, but with a knowing nod? That’s what’s happening right now with that bag. The PS1 Bag, Proenza Schouler’s iconic “anti–it bag” of the late 2000s, is ready for a comeback. And this time, it’s carrying more than just your lip balm and keys: it’s a whole new era. Cover image: courtesy of Proenza Schouler
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THE RISE OF THE PROENZA SCHOULER PS1 BAG
In the early 2000s, the It-bag phenomenon was at fever pitch. You couldn’t scroll (or flip) through a style roundup without seeing Balenciaga’s Motorcycle City Bag slouched perfectly on the arm of a model off-duty. With its asymmetrical Y2K charm, Dior’s Saddle Bag was suddenly everywhere, thanks in no small part to John Galliano’s fantastical vision. Then came the pop-happy Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami collaboration, with those rainbow monograms that defined an entire aesthetic. And of course, the Fendi Baguette: catapulted to icon status the moment Carrie Bradshaw clutched it on Sex and the City and corrected a mugger with that now-legendary line: “It’s a Baguette.”
UNEXPECTED HIT
By 2008, a new wave was cresting. Proenza Schouler -founded by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez – introduced the PS1, a soft, slouchy satchel that felt like a rebellion against the opulence and logos of that time. There was no heavy hardware, no prominent branding, just rich, worn-in leather and utilitarian lines.
Ironically, the duo never expected it to hit. “It wasn’t meant to be a thing,” they said in multiple interviews. And yet, it became the ultimate thing: the art school’s answer to more-is-more fashion. The bag for people who didn’t care about it-bags (but did). And now, the PS1 is ready for round two. Because while fashion’s obsession with nostalgia is in full swing, this revival isn’t just about the bag. It’s about the people behind it.
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NEW BEGINNINGS
Earlier this year, McCollough and Hernandez were tapped as the new creative directors of Loewe, one of fashion’s most quietly powerful houses. Here, craftsmanship and culture meet in luxurious understatement. With their track record for sleek American ease and deep respect for technique, the appointment feels like a full-circle moment for the pair—and a soft reset for the fashion landscape at large.
Their return to the spotlight has fashion insiders eyeing their back catalog, and the PS1 is at the top of the list. Searches are ticking up on resale platforms. On the streets of New York, editors are dusting off their original staples. And in Instagram close-ups and Substack dispatches, the PS1 is being recontextualized for 2025, not as a relic but as a future classic. Because here’s the thing: fashion never really stopped caring about bags. The It-bag has just shapeshifted from The Row’s minimalist Margaux to Bottega’s sculptural Pouch. But the PS1 offers something different. It’s bright, wearable, and emotional. It has some sort of lived-in cool that’s impossible to fake.
And in a fashion moment obsessed with authenticity and intention — where personal style trumps trend cycles, marking the fall of cores and micro-aesthetics — the PS1 might be precisely what people are looking for, with the right amount of nostalgia. So yes, mark our words. It’s happening. The PS1 is back. And just like before, it’s not trying too hard. That’s what makes it iconic.
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