The moment everyone was looking forward to in the run-up to New York Fashion Week? Helmut Lang ss24—now under the creative helm of Peter Do. Do debuted the runway two years ago with his eponymous fashion label. He couldn’t afford to show up on New York Fashion Week’s schedule yet. The creative director exemplifies how life can change radically within a year or two. Last Friday, Do showed his debut collection for Helmut Lang – one of the most applauded designers of the past decades. Time for a review of Helmut Lang ss24.
Cover image: courtesy of Helmut Lang
A rocky start
In 2005, Helmut Lang chose to leave his namesake brand. Since it was sold to Prada Group, his dissatisfaction had grown. He opted for a private life in Long Island instead, working as an artist. Not much later, Prada Group sold the brand to Link Theory Holdings. They relaunched the company under the creative helm of Michael and Nicole Colovos, who left in 2014 after eight years. Lang relaunched again in 2017, with Isabella Burley (now Chief Marketing Officier at Acne Studios) as the “editor-in-residence,” followed by Alix Browne in 2018. Later that year, the company announced layoffs to stay profitable. it was May 2023 for the significant change to happen: Peter Do would start as the permanent creative director. The Helmut Lang ss24 show would be his first.
Peter Do for Helmut Lang
Helmut Lang, known as a minimalist and deconstructionist, would surely – yet quietly – applaud Theory’s move to set Peter Do in place. Do has been fashion’s favorite for years. And that’s not a surprise for a young designer who’s learned the tricks of the trade from Phoebe Philo during her Céline era. Do’s designs would form a welcome, modern upgrade to the brand without losing sight of its heritage. Lang’s work for his label remains relevant over time, too – and that’s precisely what the two creative directors have in common. So, while past collections showed a lack of vision, Do’s debut paves the way for a rebirth of the iconic fashion house.
Helmut Lang ss24
During his relatively short yet significant career in fashion, Peter Do has become known for his extensive eye for detail. He started using his superpower at this new job straight away. At the start of the brand, Lang was one of the first designer brand to create an ad campaign on the top of a classic New York yellow cab. Soon to be adopted by peers, Lang set the stage for a new era in fashion. Peter Do used this historical moment as a reference in his Helmut Lang ss24 collection and collaborator Ocean Vuong, who used it for the central theme of the poem printed on the runway floor. In its turn, the poem refers to Jenny Holzer’s installation at the Helmut Lang store at 80 Greene Street.
Then there was the exquisite yet simple tailoring Lang became famous for, falling within Do’s scope of expertise. Seat belt straps also referred to Lang’s past, when he drew inspiration from bondage and underground clubs.
Overall, Do’s debut for Helmut Lang is nothing but pure excitement, full of references to the past, present, and future. And, now that life is getting more expensive, Do and his team have more great news: they want Helmut Lang to be a brand of the people, with prices not rising yearly. They focus on the longevity of the clothes instead, without making them super expensive. This future-proof rationale might point towards a prosperous future for Helmut Lang after years of agitation and lack of vision.
Discover the Helmut Lang ss24 collection below.