Today, the Gucci Fall/Winter 2024 show took place. After mixed feelings about his first collection for the house, Sabato de Sarno took the lead and directed the house to a new era. Cover image: courtesy of Gucci
GUCCI FALL/WINTER 2024
Even though competing with Prada, it’s safe to say Gucci must be one of the most-anticipated shows of the season. Front row fashion week guests gossiped about whether or not Sabato de Sarno can make the “new Gucci” work. The first looks that entered the runway consisted of thigh-high boots – also seen at Fendi – and evoked a sense of quiet luxury with a subtle hint of Frida Giannini’s helm at the house. Where Giannini’s legacy is often – deservedly – overshadowed by Tom Ford’s tenure at the brand, her signature style created at Gucci shouldn’t be overlooked. The same applies to Dawn Mello, the chief designer hired before Ford. While she couldn’t save nor elevate the brand, the buttery yellow is a tribute to her work.
Multiple hues of green formed another influential color classic, as well as the acclaimed Gucci red, which goes well with pretty much any color and is here to stay. Besides these vivid combinations, introducing the new half-moon GG Milano bag was striking, inspired by the equestrian motifs in the Gucci Archive and infused with a contemporary spirit. It’s safe to say the bag has the potential to become another Gucci classic – and thus bestseller – tapping into De Sarno’s ability to commercialize (and revive, in this case) a brand. “This is my way of dreaming, without hurry, visualizing and stratifying aspirations as if they were the bricks of a house. In my fashion, as in my dreams, the exercise is the same. Search within the folds for a void that wants to be filled. Look at the details closely before feeling free to back away to pursue a broader perspective. Capture the extraordinary where the ordinary is expected,” the creative director shared about the collection.
There is a good chance that his designs follow in the footsteps of Tom Ford, albeit not in a modern form that fits the spirit of the times. Even though De Sarno often gets “accused” of making Gucci’s collections too commercially driven, he added Gucci flair to the more subdued looks with fringe, glitters, and embellished chokers only Gucci can come away with. “My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality. Because I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather of ways to live in this world,” De Sarno explained. Overall, De Sarno skilfully masters the art of creating for Gucci, with the Gucci fall/winter 2024 collection marking the start of a new era—one to be excited about.
The highlights and biggest New York Fashion Week trends for fall/winter 2024
