From Mother of Pearl to Soulland, The Garment, GANNI, and NYNNE: Copenhagen Fashion Week spring/summer 2022 was packed with designers who are more than ready for a new era.
Cover photo: courtesy of Baum und Pferdgarten
Copenhagen Fashion Week spring/summer 2022
Copenhagen Fashion Week is home to a burst of new trends, and the spring/summer 2022 collections are no exception. Discover the highlights from the most promising brands, both leading and new ones.
Samsøe Samsøe’s Chasing the Sun forms an optimistic view of the world and delves into the feeling of never-ending adventures and journeys. The sense of exploring and breaking free is predominant. It resulted in a mute-colored collection with many pop-colored, head-turning pieces. Mainly the tailoring took a playful spin, in aqua blue and lime green hues. The perfect attire to wear when chasing the sun.
Silhouette played a protagonist role in NYNNE’s spring/summer 2022 collection. The signature Diana dress formed the centerpiece, alongside new items with uncommon details. Nynne Kunde, creative director, and founder explains: “I have always loved our Diana dress. It has been in every collection since I started and has become our signature piece. However, this season I have introduced a leather coat made up of my preferred baby blue. Definitely my favorite piece this season.” Furthermore, the bright orange suit was one of the centerpieces, together with a baby blue leather coat – a true show stopper. This season, Kunde used the consumer as her muse, instead of coming up with yet another new concept. With the starting point of creating pieces that people will love forever, it felt logical to recreate her best sellers. The palette was a little more daring, though, resulting in bright-colored items to cherish forever.
Suggested: The complete fashion week calendar of 2021
Timelessness, contrasts, and consciousness define Soulland’s signature style. Likewise, the fashion house, launched in 2002, promotes open-mindedness, responsible production, and the use of materials, alongside freedom in one’s creative process. That sense of freedom resulted in a collection packed with dichotomies. The collection, Love and Tragedy, explored the bad and the good, the lows and the highs of life. It resulted in some vibrant colored prints – including Snoopy! – juxtaposed with dark, shiny, and heavy materials, all in a boxy, oversized silhouette. Furthermore, as part of Soulland’s sustainability journey and commitment, the entire collection was made from deadstock, organic materials, and recycled fabrics.
Mother of Pearl
Transparency is key at Mother of Pearl. Therefore, the full story behind each of the label’s garments is openly insightful for the consumer, making Mother of Pearl a responsible, yet contemporary womenswear brand. The timeless collection and relaxed show felt like a breather from Wednesday’s busy schedule. Besides the usual color palette of earth tones, white, and black, there were some hints of watermelon pink and remarkable khaki. On top of this, creative director Amy Powney delved into her supply chain, to make it as transparent as possible. Combined with timeless designs, she created a sustainable collection that is here to stay.
Designers, Remix has been redesigning, upcycling, and remixing since 2002. They aim for longevity over newness, with a mission to make fashion better. Well, they succeeded with their Spring/Summer 2022 collection, packed with bright colors and their signature deconstructed items, emphasizing the urge to upcycle instead of creating new ones. However, that doesn’t mean a collection that isn’t on-trend. On the contrary, we spotted visible thongs, bare midriff, and Bottega-green. All more popular than ever.
Sophia Roe, Creative Director and Co-Designer, and Charlotte Eskildsen, Designer and Head of Sustainability started The Garment in 2020. Since its start, the label has had a timeless and seasonless approach. “Owning less and buying right” is Sophia Roe’s mantra for the brand. The singular aesthetics and minimalistic approach to design come from a vision to create garments for the woman who has an urge to build a wardrobe with timeless and personal content, which she can keep and re-style throughout many seasons.
Baum und Pferdgarten
For the spring/summer 2022 collection, Baum und Pferdgarten drew inspiration from Finnish architect and designer Alvar Aalto. His outdoor swimming pools are known for their sharp lines combined with organic shapes. Hence, nothing says summer more than bright colors and swimming pools. Based on Aalto’s signature shapes, silhouettes were fluid, combined with a bright palette. Besides, there were more sporty silhouettes as well, including some metallic show-stopping pieces. All together it resulted in a renewed longing for a
GANNI’s Higher Love calls upon the brand’s creative community to bring a high-energy format. Creative director Ditte Reffstrup drew inspiration from everything she missed during the pandemic, and took the ‘higher love’ quite literally, with the show taking place on top of Copenhagen’s manmade ski slope: CopenHill. The collection was a mix of very wearable pieces, from sporty bra tops to stretchy dresses in all kinds of shapes and forms. Still, GANNI’S girliness was clearly visible through the entire collection, both in prints and details: from romantic collars to soft pink colors. A collection that makes you dream.
With this collection, HELMSTEDT wishes to engage all of us to keep finding beauty and positivity in even the smallest and most common things we find at home – the things we have started to appreciate during the pandemic. The entire collection came close to a fisherman fairytale in pastel colors. Guests were welcomed to sit around a wooden ship wreck in the outskirts of Copenhagen. Fluid shapes, soft patterns and remarkable accessoires were predominant, creating a new dimension in fashion.