Mark our words: Berlin Fashion Week’s design talent is about to conquer the world. Discover the upcoming talents to have on your radar. Cover image: courtesy of Berlin Fashion Week, Fashion Council Germany
BERLIN FASHION WEEK BOLSTERS UPCOMING DESIGN TALENT
With innovative concepts and bold creativity, Berlin Fashion Week’s design talent is set to leave a mark on the global fashion industry. From thought-provoking collections to future-proof sustainable techniques, they embody the spirit of Berlin’s vibrant fashion scene. Anticipation mounts for the next generation of designers who will shape the future of fashion with their unparalleled talent. Discover Berlin Fashion Week’s design talents to have on your radar.
With a warm look at the past and a keen eye for the future, SF1OG brings new life into traditional techniques, infusing their creations with a modern twist. At the core of SF1OG’s ideology lies an appreciation for materials and craftsmanship, elevating every product to exquisite detail and unparalleled quality. From the meticulous selection of fabrics to the progressive cuts and designs, each piece shows their commitment to excellence.
SF1OG IS A CELEBRATION OF NOSTALGIA AND ZEITGEIST, DRAWING ON REFERENCES FROM THE PAST TO CREATE UNIQUE AND DETAIL-ORIENTED PRODUCTS THAT LIVE UP TO THE FUTURE.
The show formed an extension of their ideology. Returning guests to the cherished memories of yesteryears, the atmosphere resonated with the nostalgic essence of school days. As attendees settled into their seats atop familiar school chairs, models traversed the runway amidst a backdrop with symbols of academia – chalkboards, apples, and vintage school desks. Each ensemble was meticulously curated to evoke sentiments of youthful exuberance and academic nostalgia. The collaboration with Eastpack couldn’t have been more on-point; models effortlessly carried half-opened redesigned backpacks, blending into the collection as if it weren’t a commercial matter. Then there was the show invite: a paper hat featuring their core values in child-like handwriting.
With a fusion of minimalism and maximalism, SIA ARNIKA transported guests into an alternative reality, where cultural references intertwine with modern narratives to unveil a tapestry of intriguing complexity. The fashion label challenges conventional norms with each collection, inviting viewers to explore the juxtaposition of opposing forces within the same universe. Drawing inspiration from folklore, mysticism, and cherished memories, each collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion.
“FOR THIS LOOK, I MANIPULATED NEOPRENE TO LOOK FEATHER-LIGHT AND COMBINE IT WITH SHEER FABRICS THAT EMPHASIZE THIS LIGHT FEELING. IT CREATES SOME ILLUSION, TAPPING INTO A FANTASY WORLD.”Sia Arnika, founder and creative director of Sia Arnika
From deliberate distressing to unconventional shapes, every design element within SIA ARNIKA’s creations is about storytelling, reflecting Berlin’s contemporary culture. The brand’s distinct aesthetic aims to provoke thought, seamlessly blending anonymity with bold self-expression to spark a dialogue on societal norms and the meaning of individuality. Beyond provoking designs, SIA ARNIKA is dedicated to promoting sustainable production practices and upholding the highest standards of craftsmanship. “I work with dead stock fabrics and love to challenge the norms of their use. I manipulate neoprene to look feather-light and combine it with sheer fabrics that emphasize this light feeling. It creates some illusion, tapping into a fantasy world.”
LOU DE BÈTOLY
With a steadfast commitment to sustainability, Lou de Bètoly pioneers the art of upcycling, breathing new life into vintage and deadstock textiles sourced from flea markets and European partners. The designer herself reworked each piece, transforming waste material into exquisite haute couture creations that defy traditional norms—infusing traditional techniques such as embroidery, knitting, draping, and weaving with a forward-thinking sensibility for contemporary aesthetics, Lou de Bètoly crafts garments that transcend mere fashion, becoming timeless works of art.
“YOU WOULDN’T NOTICE IF I HADN’T TOLD YOU, BUT THIS LOOK IS MADE OF DOG WOOL.”Lou de Bètoly, founder and creative director of Lou de Bètoly
Take the white skirt and cropped sweater, for example. At first glance, they seem a well-made ensemble, but those who take a closer look notice the soft material. “It’s made of dog hair,” the designer explained during a re-see. “There’s a woman in Berlin collecting the hair of shedding dogs; dog owners send their dog’s residual hair to her, and she washes it and spins it into this high-end wool.” Beyond bespoke collections, the label has built a clientele that includes stars such as Dua Lipa, Rosalía, and Beyoncé.
MARKE was launched in 2021 by creative director Mario Keine. Driven by a desire to unravel the complexities of the human spirit and personality and a keen understanding that identity is a fluid construct, MARKE crafts collections that offer individuals the freedom to explore diverse aesthetic expressions. The materials are entirely circular by origin, sourced from overstock and deadstock materials. This season, in an homage to the essence of time, Keine unveils a collection built upon cherished memories and silent moments. Inspired by the belief that each fleeting instant forms a precious talisman, Keine sets out on a journey of introspection, delving into the depths of personal reflection. Building upon the introspective exploration of his handwriting in the previous season, Keine’s latest creations perpetuate the cycle of contemplation, offering a visual tribute to the individuals and moments that have left an indelible mark on his soul that he calls “talisman.”
“MY HIGHLIGHT OF THE SEASON HAS BEEN EXPERIENCING THE COOPERATIVE ATMOSPHERE WITHIN THE NEXT GENERATION OF GERMAN FASHION.”Mario Keine, founder and creative director of Marke
“My highlight of the season has been experiencing the cooperative atmosphere within the next generation of German fashion. Throughout the past year, especially this season, I have witnessed how cooperation has become the norm. Despite the international competition, there is a sense that significant issues such as inclusion and sustainability can only be addressed through collective efforts, mutual support, and solidarity,” the designer tells the Berlin Fashion Council.
“This season, I was particularly inspired by the 90s,” explains Malaika Raiss. “John Frusciante of the Red Hot Chili Peppers was the trigger. We combined his grungy style, positive California vibes, layering, and the grandpa-thrift style with a hyper-feminine silhouette, dropped shoulders, and low-waist pants. And when we talk about low-waist jeans, we mean Mariah Carey low-waist jeans – without a waistband.”
“WHEN WE TALK ABOUT LOW-WAIST JEANS, WE MEAN MARIAH CAREY LOW-WAIST JEANS – WITHOUT A WAISTBAND.”Malaika Raiss, founder and creative director of Malaikaraiss
Since its start, MALAIKARAISS gained international fame with resellers such as KaDeWe, Brown’s, Voo Store, United Arrows, and others. In 2015, MALAIKARAISS boldly moved and acquired a license from Lucasfilm Limited, a Walt Disney Company, to create a unique STAR WARS-themed jewelry collection. High-end fashion jewelry has become an essential part of the brand’s collection ever since.