Berlin Fashion Week shifted to a weekend schedule for the first time, seamlessly blending runway glamour with the city’s vibrant nightlife. This innovative twist allowed the fashion crowd to attend shows at iconic venues like Berghain and experience the legendary club, leading to more relaxed morning programming satisfying both night owls and early risers. Cover image: James Cochrane
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MORNING DIALOGUES
While the city slowly stirred, Berlin Fashion Week’s mornings were dedicated to either sleeping in or to “Metamorphosis,” a thought-provoking talk series organized by Fashion Council Germany and eBay Germany at NIO House on Kurfürstendamm. Under the theme “Dialogues About Change,” industry leaders from WGSN, Vogue USA, Copenhagen Fashion Week, and TRIBUTE TO MAGAZINE’s Emma Vloeimans discussed sustainability and the future of fashion, offering fresh perspectives on how the industry can evolve responsibly.
BERLIN FASHION WEEK’S ONES TO WATCH
Berlin Fashion Week AW25 delivered an exciting mix of creativity and craftsmanship. This week is the place to be when looking for undiscovered fashion talent. MARKE unveiled “Everything That Stays Is Love,” an exploration of nostalgia and longing. Inspired by Miss Havisham from Great Expectations and socialite Stephen Tennant, the collection unfolded in three acts: youthful idealism with fluid silhouettes and vintage jewelry, somber mourning attire in rich, dark textures, and distressed fabrics symbolizing decay. Crafted from sustainable deadstock materials, MARKE’s unisex aesthetic thrived on contrasts—fluidity versus structure, softness against resilience.
Avenir showcased its Fall/Winter 2025 collection at Boutique Hotel Chateau Royal, home to the international Fashion Week guests for the weekend. Divided into the Blue Line, featuring upcycled textiles, and the Red Line, transforming surplus materials into refined staples, the collection highlighted key pieces like the Hilma Blazer in salt-and-pepper wool, hand-knitted denim sets, and hand-painted showpieces created with artist Arthur Laidlaw. The nuanced palette of blues, greys, and warm hues complemented oversized silhouettes and tailored accents.
PALMWINE IceCREAM brought bold energy with “Life Moodboard,” a vibrant collection crafted from upcycled leather and deadstock denim. Without a doubt, designer Kusi Kubi hosted one of the most surprising and impressive shows. His creations—including sleeveless blazer mini dresses and mixed-material trousers—reflected his journey through warm browns, yellows, greens, and pinks, turning emotions into wearable art.
William Fan celebrated a decade of his label with “ALTER EGO” at the Berlin Philharmonie. Drawing inspiration from Peking Opera, the collection merged dramatic silhouettes with cultural depth, featuring embroidered sequins, subtle fringe details, and opulent fabrics, bridging Chinese tradition with Western modernity.
Sia Arnika’s “Harbor Bitch” channeled the rugged charm of Danish dock workers into edgy silhouettes, textured knitwear, and reimagined jersey designs. With a rebellious spirit and raw energy, the collection celebrated female empowerment through bold textures and modern interpretations of Danish clogs.
SF1OG redefined the uniform concept with their latest collection at Halle am Berghain. Designers Rosa Marga Dahl and Jacob Langemeyer embraced an Indie Sleaze aesthetic, blending sleek silhouettes with leather accents, late-2000s shutter shades, and a minimalist color palette, paying homage to subcultural rebellion.
Lou de Bètoly staged her ethereal AW25 collection in the historic Spiegelsaal at Clärchens Ballhaus, where a solitary grand piano set a haunting tone. She presented a provocative, light-hearted dialogue with haute couture traditions in her most delicate work. Each of the forty looks, crafted from pre-owned materials, showcased meticulous attention to detail, transforming forgotten treasures into contemporary pieces that radiated drama.
On the final day of Berlin Fashion Week, Der Berliner Salon marked its 10th anniversary with an impressive exhibition at Gemäldegalerie Berlin. Curated by Christiane Arp and Marcus Kurz, the showcase featured over 50 designers, with the debut of RAUM Berlin, where talents like Anne Bernecker, Gerrit Jacob, and Namilia presented curated collections, reaffirming Berlin’s status as a hub for spotting emerging fashion talent, as well as innovative and sustainable techniques, and likeminded people.
